Improvement in plaited shirt-bosoms



y UNITEij STATES y PATENT "OFFIC, 1

ABRAHAM DREY, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

' IMPROVEMENT IN PLAlTED SHIRT-BOSOMS.

Specification forming part ofLettvrs Patent No. 43.107, dated June 14, 1864 antedated June 10, 1864.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ABRAHAM DREY, ot Baltimore, county of Baltimore, and State of Maryland, have invented a new and Improved Plaited Material for Shirt-Bosolns and other Plaited Garments or Articles; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making a part of this specification, in which- Figure l is a view of the front part of a shirt having my improved plaited bosom applied to it. Figs. 2, 3, and 4 show in different views the improved mode of plaiting.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several iigures.

The method hitherto adopted of plaiting shirt-bosoms and other portions of garments requires not only a large amount of material to be folded or doubled together to form the plaits, but these folds require, particularly in the case of shirt-bosoms, to be neatly stitched together, for the stitches are all seen on the i outside of the bosom when it is finished. The

two folds or thicknesses of material behind the first or outside thickness are not in sight, nor do they add any additional strength or durability tothe bosom. Then, if these superiiuous thicknesses can be dispensed with, it will be seen that I can obtain a great economy in material, which is now very expensive.

The object of my invention is to economize material in the manufacture of shirt-bosoms and other plaited garments, and at the same time to preserve all the appearance of full plaits, the product being quite as durable, more easily washed and ironed, and when ironed presenting as neat appearance as the full plaits.

'Io enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will proceed to describe its construction.

In the construction of the improved prodnet-as, for instance, shirtbosoms -I use two pieces of stuff for each bosom. One piece ais to form the back or lining, for the other or outside piece. This liningl may therefore be made of any common cheap material, while the piece for the outside of the bosom should be made of a finer and more expensive fabric, which will have a neat and handsome appeararcs.

I propose to use sewing-machines in this manufacture, although it can be madeby hand, but not as rapidly nor as4 conveniently as by machinery. The material which is to form the outside of the bosom is 'first cut ont thert`` quired width, and then spaced off equally and l parallel lines marked ou it, which lines serve as a guide in folding the material. The piece thus prepared is doubled at the parallel marks and stitched very near to the doubled edge, and along this edge the entire length of the piece ot stuff. Several rows, according to the number of fold or plaits required in the bosom, are made, after which this piece is applied to the lining or backing a, as follows The edge of the outside piece, which has been prepared as above described, is folded under and stitched neatly to the lining c, as shown at b, Figs. 2 and 3. rllhe outside piece is their folded, drawn back, as indicated by the a1= row, Fig. 3, over the lining, and a braid, c, is stitched closely to the edge of the stitched fold or ridge d through the two thicknesses, thus forming a fold and stitching the two fabrics together at this point. The folds are in this manner stitched to the lining', one fold at a time, until the work of stitching the two pieces together is complete.

Instead of employing braid, as described, a simple row of stitching under the edges of the outer folds or ridges, d, will answer; but for i woolen shirts, which are made of different colors, the braid willgive an attractive appearance to the bosom. A

The object of stitching the outside piece of material in narrow foldsgor ridges, preparatory to the stitching of the two pieces together, is that when the material is drawn over these folds or :ridges they will elevate the .outer `thickness of stuft', and these elevations will give to the bosom all the appearance of a full= plaited bosom. rIhe increased thickness at certain points on the bosom, obtained by fold ing and stitching or ridging the outside material, together with the mode of stitching thismaterial to the lining, preserves the plaits or folds in their proper shape during the washi ing and ironing of the bosom, and the lining, to which the folds or plaits are stitched, gives strength and durability to the bosom, and enables me to preserve the folds in their proper form.

For woolen shirt-bosoms my invention is the trade that woolen fabrics cannot be neatly v plaited on account of ltheir thickness land elasticity. It' the plaits or folds are made as hitherto in Woolen materials, they Will have a very rough and unsightly appearance, particularly lafter the besoinsr have been washed or Worn some time; but when made as I have above described the bosoms, Whether made ot' wool,

linen, or other material, will remain iat and always have a neat appearance. y

My invention can be used in the manufacture of shams,7 and in a great many other articles of wearing apparel.

From this description it Will be seen that hy rst ridging and then folding the cloth I am enabled to so apply it to abacking or lining as to form a shirt-bosom which will have all the appearance of a full-plaited bosom, using for this purpose a comparatively small anount of material, or rather a small amount ot' expensive material. By this means-I can make shirt-bosoms at a very reduced cost over the method hitherto adopted of plaiting them.

lt is obvious that the amount of' fine material Within a given space must be suiciently great over the amount ot coarsevmaterial in the same space to allow the Afolds to be made. Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, isv l The new product for shirt-bosoms, shams, &c., substantially as herein described, produced by ridging thc surface material on its inner side and fastening such ridged material in front ot the ridges to a backing, substantially as set forth.

ABRAHAM DREY.

Witnesses:

RoBT. W. FENWIK, E. SCHAFER.

1 rami- 

